chaos or Chaos? New Jalpaiguri Train Station, West Bengal

photo of a Saddhu by Lars (see Comments on 'drunk with love, wandering in the dark')

chaos noun 1. utter confusion or disorder, wholly without organization or order. 2. (usually cap.) the infinity of space or formless matter supposed to have preceded the existence of the ordered universe.

chaos or Chaos? The first definition is what hits you on arrival in a strange, apparently unorganized place. Always Europeans (read “Western”) leaving the time-zones of their known universe. There is book by an African who realized his dream to visit Greenland. Where is a book by a non-Spanish speaking Mayan arriving to work in California? Look at the second definition: do you believe in an ordered universe?

Stuck at another train station, Lars and Heidi – who decided to do their final year practical work in Indian hospitals rather than in their hometown of Vienna - book a room to stretch out in. A rat eats their snacks, sleeps beside them on the bed, and leaves droppings as thanks. These words float through Lars’ head:

The car radio informs us of the government’s nuclear weapons program. A mission to outer space is also planned, which should fill the whole nation with pride. A beggar knocks on the windscreen, clearly marked by leprosy. A group of eunuchs is on the look out for targets marked with cloth signifying blessings or damnations, depending on a willingness of payment. Perhaps inside this temple, or the internet café over there? Here priests are currently occupied with the slaughter of goats, there young men are searching the web for partners of the appropriate sub-castes...

..........................

Slowly, a traveler comes to realize that resistance is futile. No one can win the struggle against time. He opens his eyes. Winds down the car window. Breathes in deeply. The heavy air of the Subcontinent floods his lungs. The pollution makes him cough. But he breathes in more than just dust, carbon dioxide, fumes of perfume, cow dung, spices and rubbish. Piggybacking on all those rumours something else creeps into your system: Karma, the Indian fate.

Past and future unite. To keep on moving in this country, take a train or bus, and the next one is leaving now, in ten hours, tomorrow, maybe already yesterday. No clocks hang in Indian train stations. The traveler takes off his own watch, and puts it in his pocket. The jetlag evaporates. You have arrived.

(translation from the German by mois)
© Lars Schaefer, Oktober 2005
Railway Retiring Room Nr 2 (zwischen Gleis 4 und 5)
New Jalpaiguri Train Station, West Bengal